The Heart of a Restaurant
Jitendra Rana, owner of the newly opened Atithi, in Twickenham, believes that a good chef is at the heart of a restaurant. He explains more to Tandoori
Mint Leaf and Mint Leaf Lounge are two of some of London’s finest Indian restaurants. General Manager Gerrard McCann talks to Tandoori about their launch of a new menu
Often regarded as two of the most modern and enjoyable haunts of the London Indian restaurant scene, Mint Leaf and its sister establishment Mint Leaf Lounge, have an ethos of offering contemporary and progressive cooking.
Even critical plaudits have enforced this view: “judicious spicing, carefully constructed contemporary twists and tasting-size dishes define the style”, “the restaurant is a popular spot for post-work cocktails and romantic rendezvous” and “the food is really enjoyable and carefully put together”.
Of course no good restaurant is without a good menu and Mint Leaf has always ensured that its menu changes every season. According to general manager Gerard McCann, the new menu, implemented by executive chef Dhayalan Paul, has been the easiest he has ever had to try. “Easy” in the sense that it has been absolutely plain sailing and the dishes were spot-on the very first time he tried them.
“When we sat down to try this new menu,” says McCann, “I was just so amazed to find that so many of the dishes were an unqualified success. All credit to Paul and his team for being so incredibly talented. My work becomes all the more easier because what I and the rest of us need to then do is to ensure that while the cooking is lovely, we need to have an even spread of different kinds of dishes.
That means that I need to be certain that the structure and balance of the menu is correct. I have to have good share of seafood, meat, poultry and vegetarian dishes so that customers have a good choice to choose from.”
McCann is generous enough to say that the job of what the dishes are and the ingredients they consist is entirely in the hands of Paul.
“I have complete faith in what he does and I think it’s also nice to know that we are always pleasantly surprised to learn what’s being put on the menu. For this menu, desserts for instance, were given a more traditional spin – with items such as carrot halwa and kulfi being very much to the forefront.”
Keeping on the level of having a restaurant which is always inventive and interesting in its food offering, McCann notes that when they decided to offer special menus that tied in with special days last year such as the launch of the Alphonso mango season or Chocolate Week – where a menu alongside the a la carte encompassed the said ingredients – it was to ensure that the kitchen is never complacent and that the team can be diverse and unique.
“I think it’s crucial,” notes McCann, “that we are not perceived as resting on our laurels. Not only are the back of house personnel given creativity with coming up with something quite different when we do tie-ins for special days and events throughout the year, our customers are also happy with the twist we give to our cooking. That said, we wouldn’t want to deviate too much from our core a la carte offering.
So long as Paul keeps exploring, our food tastes good, the texture is pleasing and the dish looks eye-catching then I’m happy to put most things on the menu.”
Sample Menu
Starters
Chicken Malai Tikka
(pickled chicken chutney, onion salsa)
Pan Seared Scallops
(marinated asparagus, chilli mango relish)
Aubergine Three ways
(pan seared aubergine steak, aubergine crush, aubergine raita)
Potato Cakes
(curried chickpeas with tamarind and yoghurt)
Mains
Grilled Prawns
(semolina mash with lemon coconut sauce)
Bengali Seafood Broth
(served with steamed rice)
Braised Lamb and Turnip with Fennel
(pulao rice, sautted spinach)
Coorgi Pork Curry
(steamed rice and stir-fried okra)
Malabar Chicken Stew
(curry leaf, mustard tempered rice noodles)
Desserts
Masala Chai Cream
(served with vanilla shortbread)
Warm Carrot Halwa
(cardamom ice cream)
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